Bangkok is known for its sleazy taxi drivers. So we went to the airport taxi stand, and got into a cab, with the unhappiest driver I have ever seen. First, he did not know the hotel, not a good sign. Then he didn't know the street it was on. hmmm.... Finally found out on his radio, so then I wonder about the hotel I have chosen. I went to Trip Advisor, and picked Bangkok's 2nd best hotel. #1 was $400/night and #2 was $123. So I picked #2. Turns out the cabbie didn't know it because it is pretty new. It was on Embassy Row, very quiet area, and the hotel itself was wonderful. I love when as soon as you check in they all call you by name very time you come through the lobby. I have said before I am being completely spoiled by the caliber of hotel we are staying in. The hotel had offered a ride in to the city in a Jaguar XKE for $400. Tim put his foot down. pout pout... a chance of a lifetime! So a cab cost $4. But in unbelievable traffic. We noted the smoke coming out the ears of our already grumpy cabbie. The traffic in Bangkok is unbelievable. No big registration fee for a car like in Singapore. The fee neatly keeps the number of cars down.
We went out for dinner Friday night to a hotel downtown that I had heard had the best Thai food. The Shangri-la. Our hotel took us by shuttle to the BTS (Bangkok Transit System). He let us out, and we had no idea where the actual station was. Everything is in that funny Thai alphabet. After much wandering we realized we had to take a pedestrian overpass to the station. (would have been nice to get a clue of that before being dropped off!).
We meandered our way around the station and got on the train. At rush hour. Crowded. Like we hear of Japan, but no white glove pushers. But it was wild. Manoeuvred a transfer and got off down town with an hour to spare, so we took a free shuttle boat to a shopping area Asiatique. Many many stores of souvenirs and eating places. Getting off the ferry boat I missed the dock, because my stupid knees don't bend as much as needed sometimes. So my other shin hit the metal edge of the wharf. And I am in long white pants. hmmm......
A wonderful meal at Shangri-la, with Thai entertainment, dancers with elaborate costumes. Touristy but classy. I was told at our hotel that they had a dress code. Long pants, and shoes not sandals. I didn't bring shoes, only had sandals. But I had my pretty jewelled (Jill) sandals, and they passed muster. In fact there were flip flops at the next table. I didn't think to put on bug juice, or to bring bug juice to a city. A jungle yes, a big (7 mill) city no. Big mistake. They found one leg under the table. One leg about 20 bites, Other leg 1 bite!
The next day we did a tour with a guide and driver. More expensive than we would have like ($300) but we had so little time. It was good. But I came down to the lobby, and our guide said "you can't wear that. It is inappropriate". Yikes. Leggings, a white long top and a scarf to cover my sleeves. No leggings. So I put on my bloody white pants from the night before, and off we went. The Emerald Buddha. The Reclining Buddha. The Golden Buddha. Then a riverboat ride (like a long boat in Pukhet, or a bum boat in Singapore- a beautifully designed boat to cut the waves of the ocean or busy river.
Getting in to the boat, Tim got in to take my hand, and the boat guy took my other. I stepped in to the boat and he did not let go of my hand, so my compromised ROM shoulder was pulled way back further than it should or could go. I yelled "Let go" about 5 times before he did. Ouch. I had like whip lash pain in my shoulder girdle and neck for days after. I wasn't called Jane for nothing. Calamity Jane.
The level of the water had many homes and docks under water. You can only imagine in rain storms, and that terrible flooding of last year. Catastrophic.
The water is sludge brown. But many out fishing. At one point we were taken to a dock to get some bread to feed the fish, and the catfish swarmed the boat. Yuck.
We read the Saturday Globe and Mail. The hotel offered over 70 newspapers. They must print it off the internet. So we lolled in bed Sunday morning feasting on the G&M Saturday paper. It was sumptuous. I do miss my G&M.
We came home at night to treats in our room. One night, a little snack of sweet mango rice in banana leaves, the next night, a gorgeous fresh mango. You don't get that at Holiday Inn.
It was a lovely weekend. Bangkok is big, old, dirty, and a city of contrasts.
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